7 Days in Puglia

Puglia is Italy’s best-kept secret no more. This seven-day itinerary takes you through whitewashed hill towns, UNESCO-listed trulli villages, baroque piazzas and some of the clearest water in the Mediterranean. It’s a relaxed pace — you’ll rarely need to cover more than 60km between stops — leaving time to linger over long lunches, visit olive groves and watch the sun set over the Adriatic.

Day 1 — Arrive in Bari. Settle into Puglia’s beating heart.

Fly into Bari and spend the afternoon getting lost in the labyrinthine lanes of Bari Vecchia (the old city). Watch the nonnas making orecchiette by hand in the street at Via dell’Arco Basso, then wander down to the Basilica di San Nicola. Dinner at one of the trattorias near the waterfront — try tiella barese, the local layered rice, potato and mussel bake.

Day 2 — Alberobello and the trulli. Stay the night.

Drive south through the Valle d’Itria to Alberobello, the trulli capital — conical stone huts that look like they’ve sprung from a fairy tale. Wander the Rione Monti district in the early morning before tour groups arrive. In the afternoon, visit nearby Locorotondo for its perfectly circular hilltop streets and local Verdeca wine. Consider staying in a converted trullo for the full experience.

Day 3 — Ostuni and the coast.

The “White City” of Ostuni crowns a hilltop with dazzling whitewashed buildings and sweeping views across olive groves to the Adriatic. Spend the morning in town, then head to the coast at Torre Canne or Rosa Marina for an afternoon on some of Puglia’s best beaches. Evening back in Ostuni — the cathedral square at dusk is particularly atmospheric.

Day 4 — Lecce: the Florence of the South.

Drive south to Lecce, considered the baroque jewel of Italy. The local pietra leccese (golden limestone) allowed craftsmen to carve extraordinarily ornate facades — the Basilica di Santa Croce is the standout example. Spend the whole day here. The Piazza del Duomo is one of Italy’s finest enclosed squares. Don’t miss the Roman amphitheatre in the main piazza or a pasticciotto (custard pastry) from Pasticceria Natale.

Day 5 — Otranto and the Adriatic coast.

Head east to Otranto, the most easterly point in Italy, where you can see Albania on a clear day. The 12th-century cathedral contains a remarkable mosaic floor covering 800 square metres — one of the most extraordinary Romanesque artworks in Europe. Spend the afternoon at the beautiful Baia dei Turchi beach nearby.

Day 6 — Matera (day trip from Puglia).

Cross the regional border into Basilicata for a full day in Matera, one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements on earth. The Sassi cave dwellings, carved directly into the ravine, were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993 and served as the backdrop for Mel Gibson’s The Passion of the Christ. Take a guided walk through the Sasso Caveoso in the morning, then explore the cave churches scattered through the gorge in the afternoon.

Day 7 — Back to Bari. Farewell lunch.

Return to Bari for a final morning. Visit the Mercato del Pesce (fish market) near the old harbour, pick up some local DOP olive oil, taralli biscuits, or burrata to take home, and enjoy a long farewell lunch before your flight.